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    Floating Star Wars Beds

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 8:52 AM with No comments

    Materials: Linnmon Desk Top, MALM Floating Nightstand , 200lb Picture Frame Hangers, screwdriver, leveler, saw

    Description: We bought two of everything for our boys new Star Wars themed bedroom.
    Used the Linnmon Desktop (19.99) as the headboards and the MALM Floating Nightstands.


    We cut the headboards down a few inches for the width of a twin bed (we added two inches for bedding). While the MALM is suppose to be used with the bed on the floor, we used 200lb picture frame hangers for them to look like they are floating. Used the same hangers for the headboards. Got them at Home Depot for $14.99 each.

    Screwed everything into the walls and used leveler to line things up.

    ~ Team Thompson, United States
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    Malm Dresser Turned Dog Window Seat

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 12:39 PM with No comments

    Materials: Malm Dresser, Paint, Plywood, Foam, Batting, Fabric, Staples, Upholstery Nails

    Description: I created a window seat for our dogs so that they are able to sit and look out the window.

    Instructions:

    Paint dresser (optional).
    Cut a piece of plywood to fit the top of the dresser.
    Cut a piece of foam the same size as the plywood.
    Wrap batting and fabric around to backside of plywood and staple down.
    To create tufts, I used upholstery nails hammered down through the fabric, batting and foam into the plywood. (optional)


    See more of the window seats for dogs.

    ~ Lauren, Ohio
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    Living Room vs Multi-media work at home office

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 1:44 PM with No comments

    Materials: Malm occasional tables, Expedit 2x4, Besta, Lillangen

    Description: We needed a work@home desk to be included in our living room. But we didn't want to see cables and PCs! We needed to fight against 2 desktop PCs, 2 laptops and 4 monitors. We opted for 2 Malm occasional tables (length 211 cm) to be used as shelves, without the legs. These 2 Malm have been hung between the wall on the right side and the Expedit 2x4 on the left. To do this, we used L profiled aluminium bars, screwed into the wall and into Expedit.


    One Malm occasional table (length 191 cm) was used as sliding desk for hosting 2 keyboards a 2 laptops.
    On the bottom, 1 Besta 20x120x64 with a Lillangen 20x60x64 contain 2 desktop PCs. We refined this base storage with Besta/Vara sliding doors with a structure 180 cm large.

    When it is closed, cables disappear, as well as keyboards and laptops go under the monitors' shelf!

    ~ FROLA, italy
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    Indoor Custom Dog House

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 7:09 AM with No comments

    Materials: IKEA MALM 2 Drawer Chest

    Description: Materials: 1 Malm 2 drawer chest 60x55 cm / assorted colors

    Description: If you are like me, searching for a nice, cheap, well built indoor dog house for our small dog breeds was tough. As I searched multiple websites, I couldn't find anything under 100 dollars that looked decent that was made of wood material. I was at Ikea one day and noticed a Malm 2 drawer chest... then a lightbulb lit in my head. So here is a simple, easy project that I hope you all enjoy. My Yorkie is 9 lbs so I feel this Indoor Dog house is good for breeds 10 lbs and smaller. Project took approx. 30 mins.

    Out of the box you will notice two large panels that have 2 rows of metal tracks already installed. you will need a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws on each panel.



    Next, install three of the support studs as shown in my photos. Do not install the stud that would originally separate the two drawers at the front of the chest. This will allow room for the opening of the front.

    Once you have completed the outer frame of the dog house, the last step is to use the 2 panels that would originally be used for the drawer faces. These two panels will be used for the front of the dog house as shown. I started by installing the top panel first. I secured the top panel simply by hammering two nails, one on each side. I used two two inch nails. Since they were grey, I used a sharpie to color the tops so they could seem hidden.

    The final step is to install the final drawer panel in an upright position. As you can see, I installed mine on the left side of the chest. Left or right is up to you. Once to position, use nails to secure it in place. I also bought a small bathroom mat from Ikea to use for the bottom. Congrats on your new dog house :)

    ~ Alex Gomez, San Diego, Ca
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    King size MALM bed with no headboard storage solutions available? Time to get HACKED

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 4:02 AM with No comments

    Materials: 1 King size MALM bed frame, 1 4'x8'x3/4" sheet of birch plywood, 1 2'x4'x1/4" sheet of birch luan plywood, approximately 20' of doorstop material, 8 L brackets, various screws, etc

    Description: 1) Determined how far away from the wall I wanted the top shelf to be. In our case, we felt that 11"-12" would be good.
    2) I measured the width on the 3/4" plywood and cut it out using my table saw.
    3) Since the MALM bed is 82 1/2" wide, I knew I needed to account for the face frames on each end since I wanted everything to be flush with the MALM headboard that came with the bed. So I cut the shelf to a length of 81 3/4". My face frame material (the doorstop mentioned in the materials) is 3/8" thick.




    4) I wanted the shelves on the sides to be the same height as the bed once the top was sitting on them. So I cut 4 sides out of the 3/4" plywood that were 12" deep by 29 7/8" high.
    5) I then cut 4 shelves for the sides out of the 3/4" plywood that were 12" deep and 9 3/4" wide.
    6) I assembled the bookcases for each end by nailing the shelves into place through the sides. 4 2" brad nails along each side is more than sufficient.
    7) I cut the back pieces out of the 1/4" birch luan and attached with small finish nails, making sure that the pieces were square.
    8) I measured the exposed edges of plywood and cut all of the face frame material to the appropriate lengths.
    9) Nail on the vertical pieces first, then the horizontal pieces. To get that look like real furniture, I made sure to rip the face frame material so that it was about 1/4" wider than the plywood so there would be a little overhang.
    10) After I gave everything a really thorough sanding with 220 grit sandpaper (pay special attention to the transitions between the plywood and face frame to make it perfectly smooth), I applied one coat of clear satin polyurethane to everything. I had previously tested different finishes to see which ones matched the birch veneer closest.
    11) I let the poly dry overnight before sanding it one more time with 000 grit steel wool to make it really smooth.
    12) Installation was pretty straightforward. I attached the 2 L brackets to the side of the shelf that would be against the MALM headboard, and then crawled behind the bed and attached them to the bed. While under there I attached 2 more L brackets to the shelf and the wall making sure to secure them with heavy duty wall anchors.
    13) The book shelves were slid in place, making sure they were flush with the outside of the MALM headboard, and fastened to the top shelf with 2 L brackets each.
    14) You can see from the pics that I left a gap in the back of the top shelf. This is so that cords have a place to go behind the shelf.

    ~ Jeff, Pittsburgh
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    A Better Bench featuring Malm and Lack coffee table

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 7:44 AM with No comments

    Materials: MALM storage cabinet and LACK coffee table

    Description: We combined a MALM storage unit and a LACK coffee table to make a bench with storage. To make this work we had to widen the coffee table by a few millimeters and flip the storage unit so that the lid is now the bottom.

    The MALM storage unit and LACK coffee table are almost a perfect match. They are the same depth and the MALM is just a few inches shorter than the LACK table. The only problem is that the MALM is just a hair longer than the inner spacing of the LACK table.



    Luckily the LACK tabletop overhangs the legs by a few millimeter on each side, so we could widen it just enough to fit the MALM. We carefully drilled out the mounting holes in the legs just enough so that we could slide them outward, making it flush with the tabletop. This created enough room so that we could just barely slide the MALM into place.

    Flipping the storage unit was pretty easy, we just laid the lid on the floor and moved the sliders from the top of the cabinet to the bottom side. The result looks like they were designed to go together.

    See more of the Malm & Lack bench.

    ~ Ryan Burns, San Francisco
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    Lifting up IKEA table for bed to fit with other beds

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 11:30 AM with No comments

    Materials: MALM Occasional table, wood, steel plates, saw and screwdriver

    Description: We liked MALM Occasional table in oak, which went with our bedroom, but our non IKEA bed was to high.
    Made an extension which I think look pretty and work well.
    Moved the wheels from the table to a piece of wood by cutting out enough space for them.
    Added extension to this piece fitting into the place where the wheels had been.



    Got the wood covered by steel plates, folded by a local metalworker.
    Could be done in copper or aluminium yourself, which is softer than steel.
    Voila!

    ~ Frode, Norway
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    Ikea Malm Closet drawers

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 8:43 AM with No comments

    Materials: Ikea Malm 3 drawer Chest White

    Description: My new home had a closet 36" wide with nothing in it. I needed shelves and drawers so the 32" wide Ikea Malm chest of drawers was the perfect thing to start with. I found one on Craigslist that was stained, beat up, and cheap...

    I had to disassemble and reassemble the dresser into my closet. I braced it to the wall. I put one 2x4 behind it, and used scraps of 2x4 cut into precise sizes to brace it into the wall with screws.

    I bought MDF board (which I later primed and painted) to cover the top. This was the base of my closet.

    I used crown molding to hide the braces, and give it a built-in feel.



    I put up the rest of the MDF boards in my closet, and used some simple molding. I nailed it into place with my nail gun.

    Finally, I caulked the molding and put hardware on the Malm to finish the high-end look of my closet.

    ~ Matt W, Dallas, TX
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    Malm Lego Table

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 11:04 AM with No comments

    Materials: Malm 2 drawer chest, large dowel, spray paint, Lego base plate, glue

    Description: I was looking to make my grand-daughter a Lego table. The ones I saw were either too large or I didn't like the storage. The Malm 2 draw chest was the perfect size. I spray painted it Lego colors, cut the large dowel into approx 2 inch "slices" and glued them on the front to make "giant Legos", and glued the base plate onto the top.

    ~ Kathy T, Long Island NY
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    Malm bed ledge hack

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 4:07 AM with No comments

    Materials: Malm Queen size Bed x 2, L brackets

    Description: I wanted a bed ledge, but I didn't need Malm's existing slide out storage (or want to spend that much, and I like to reuse/re-purpose). I wanted a ledge the same length as my Malm Black/brown queen bed, and none of Ikea's ledges or occasional tables had the right dimensions or colour match.


    1. Procure a second Malm bed (second hand wouldn't hurt the pocket as much)
    2. Discard the side rails, the metals supports and the slats
    3. Drill holes in your 'second' Malm bed head(keeping the first and most loved Malm scar free should you prefer) to match those on your chosen L brackets. I think I placed them 300 mm from the edge...
    4. Take the second Malm's foot and align the second head to the foot to form an upside down L - the foot will become the ledge, and the head will become the second set of 'legs' to your ledge. The mark and drill the guide holes for the other side of the L brackets.


    5. Place L bracket on the other side of the 'foot' and screw in.
    6. (OPTIONAL) Matched L brackets to first Malm bed head. I did not do this, and with the other side screwed in, and the L brackets, it limits lateral movement of the ledge, without scarring my first Malm.

    The only limitation is that the Malm foot needs to face the wall to hide it's ugly un-finishedness. But that's easy enough!


    See more of the Malm bed ledge.

    ~ Sarah, Sydney, Australia
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    Manly DIY Play Kitchen

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 11:30 AM with No comments

    Materials: Malm nightstands, Bygel rail and hooks, Lansa drawer pulls, Duktig utensils and pots/pans,

    Description: I made my two year old son a bitchin’ kitchen, inspired by the likes of Bobby Flay, Tyler Florence, and Anthony Bourdain (who’s kitchen I’ve never seen, but I can only imagine). The kid loves cooking SO much, I knew this would be a home run gift he would enjoy for years.

    But of course I couldn't just buy one and put it together—where's the fun in that?!

    I hunted down gently used furniture I might be able to turn into a culinary haven. I finally scored two Ikea Malm nightstands.



    I won't lie, there were several challenges during this project.

    First challenge? Little to no work space. We have a tiny basement and no garage to set up tools or a work table. And with the winter weather on our heels, the driveway/backyard weren’t awesome options. We were scrunched, to say the least.

    Second challenge? It was not my intent to get two different cabinets. I got the small one first, then a week later picked up the bigger one, immediately realizing the problem. They were both "Malm nightstands" but I should have asked for measurements…lesson learned. Though at $20, I decided I could make it work and bought the big one anyway, hoping to solve my height variance issue later.

    I moved forward with paint. After sanding everything down (just to rough up the shiny veneers), everything got a coat of my fav primer—it adds more "stick". I then sprayed the small cabinet with aluminum paint and brushed the big one with white trim paint, the drawers with black chalkboard paint. Everything but the aluminum was leftover from other projects, saving me big $$.


    When all painting was complete (which seemed to take FOREVER) I hit everything with a coat of polyurethane …especially the oven. The aluminum had a tendency to rub off on hands/clothing/anything and I wanted to be sure it stayed put. I hit the knobs and burners with poly too.

    Third challenge? The tile backsplash. It took me about a minute to find the tile I wanted, a glass, greenish, subway variety at Home Depot that I've been drooling over for years. But since we haven't done a tiling project in about 7 years, we were supply-less—there in lies the challenge. Good thing I was able to talk a nice Home Depot flooring expert into doing this part of the project for me...whew.

    Which brings me to the Fourth Challenge. The oven door.

    Let me start by saying we are in NO WAY wood-workers. (Pretty sure that will be eminently clear in the next paragraph) While I've been reading and learning from the likes of Ana White, I'm long from being confident with this fine art.

    So if you think it's possible to cut a hole in the middle of a piece of oak plywood (leftover from a train project of some kind), you'd be dead, dead wrong. Believe me, we tried, and failed miserably. We hurled the result in the trash after two days of attempting some emergency wood-filler-and-primer surgery…it was so bad I didn't even take a picture.

    It caused some major frowny faces, arguments, guffaws of frustration, some reading time on Ana White’s website, and another trip to Home Depot where I took up a whole aisle laying out my pieces and measuring everything at least 10 times. Luckily the weather cooperated so we could work outside on "Oven Door Part Deux".

    The results were PERFECT.

    Luckily, there were a few "piece of cake" parts. Like the sink (a dog bowl from Amazon), faucet (recycled from Stu’s grandparents), burners (wood discs and dowels from Michael's), knobs (painted wood discs from Michael's), and oven legs (large wooden dowel cut down) all came together with no problem.

    A few touchups, some hinges, handles, oven rack, and knob attachment finished the project. I couldn’t help but make them Wolf red.

    The piece behind the knobs is actually an original drawer cut down and gorilla-glued to the top of the oven opening. To attach the knobs we drilled holes slightly larger than our screws. A tiny pilot hole in the back of the knobs helped the screw go in without cracking the wimpy wood disc. The knobs turn freely without falling off.

    I built the oven rack out of a small metal cooling rack. A couple screws (which I painted black) hold it in place nicely.

    A piece of plexi finished the oven door (easy buy at Home Depot but I had to cut it down myself). I was sure to drill pilot holes in the plexi AND wood to prevent cracking. A magnet holds the door closed. And, my favorite part, I added a cheapy motion sensor light that turns on when the door is opened. Fabulous!

    Glue, scissors, and some paint made the burners look like they could pack some heat.

    I used my favorite drawer pulls from Ikea, the same ones we used in our old kitchen. They make perfect tea towel holders too!

    We’re so pleased with the turnout and can’t wait to try all the yummy food Ethan will make us for years to come!

    Check out the full story at my blog: http://preparingforpeanut.com/ethans-manly-diy-play-kitchen/

    Product list
    Tile: Home Depot; Cutting Food: Melissa & Doug; Toaster: Hape; Stand Mixer: Hape; Utensils: Ikea; Pots & Pans: Ikea;Handheld Mixer: Pottery Barn Kids; Red Hanging Bucket: Ikea; Hanging Rail: Ikea; Drawer Pulls: Ikea; Cabinets: Originally Ikea, found on Craigslist; Faucet: hand me down; Sink: dog bowl from Amazon; Burners: DIY; Knobs: DIY; Wooden Crate: leftover packaging from christmas gift; Oven Rack: already owned; Metal pitcher: Ikea; Espresso Cups: Ikea; Baking pan set: Pottery Barn Kids; Aluminum Spray Paint: Rustoleum.

    Check out the full story at my blog.

    ~ Becky @ Preparingforpeanut.com, United States

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    An EXPEDIT Bed for kids!

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 8:46 AM with No comments

    Materials: 2 2x2 EXPEDIT, MALM, SULTAN LURÖY, SULTAN HUGLO

    Description: After deciding to renovate my children's bedroom, and searching this site and coming across some fantastic posts, I thought I'd give it a go.

    You may recognise a lot of the hacks like this, this, this and this!

    It comprises of a MALM chest of drawers, 2 x EXPEDIT, SULTAN LURÖY bed base, a SULTAN HUGLO mattress and some 125 x 25 timber and some 25 X 25 timber spurring.

    So first things first.
    I needed to do a test fit of the items together with the mattress. I knew that I really needed to give the bed some stability by fixing the top to at least two walls, but with the 2 2x2 Expedit's and the MALM set of drawers the overall bed length would be too long. I will come to that later.


    Bed Construction.

    So as I said earlier, I needed to make sure the bed was firmly secured against the wall on two sides. I constructed the main frame from some 125 x 25mm timber (5x1 in olde English!!) and fixed it to the wall using frame fixings (The same used to fix door frames and windows etc to walls). I did this on two sides and then screwed and glued the other two sides together


    As you can see from the picture, I then glued and screwed some 25x25mm battens to the base of the frames. These would act as the support for the bed slats. Also in the picture above, I have already attached one of the Expedit units to the wall. This was done again using screw fixings through the edge of the units as this is where the internal timber supports are.

    You may have already noticed that the height of the MALM is lower than the overall height of the EXPEDIT, but this was rectified using a thin piece of MDF and a cut down shelf from a LACK table!!


    The LURÖY Slats resting on the 25x25

    The next task was to fit the slats. As IKEA sell these separately it was just a simple case of laying them out on the battens that were in place

    The battens over the MALM drawers were screwed down with 2 50mm screws. This ensured that the screws penetrated the battens, the filler pieces on top of the drawers and the drawers themselves.


    The next task was a bit of a tidy up job. The gap down the side of the MALM drawers was filled in using a piece of white faced chipboard

    Of course, then came two sticking points. The first was how does my son get on the bed?

    That turned out to be easier than I thought. I just cut down the ladders that he originally had on his large cabin bed so they fit and after a few well chiselled groves in the bed frame, they slid into place.

    The second was that my wife panicked that he would fall out of bed. After informing her that he would probably only do it once and after recovering from a black eye for such a "stupid thing to say" I went with a fence style bed guard. This were constructed from some timber that I had in my garage and two left over slats from shortening my daughters FJELLSE bed.

    What about the gap at the end of the mattress you may ask. Well after some consideration I decided to turn this into a shelf. I had some left over white faced chipboard which I cut to size, screwed down and sealed around the edges. I then made a 'Headboard' of sorts in order to stop his pillows falling off the mattress.

    I also constructed a desk for him and added some VIKA ALEX drawers underneath.

    See more of the Expedit children's bed.

    ~ Simon Millward, Basingstoke, UK
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    MALM meets NUMERAR Kitchen Island

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 11:39 AM with No comments

    Materials: MALM, NUMERAR, AKURUM

    Description: My wife and I recently bought our first house. Yay! As you can imagine, living in L.A. means housing is very expensive, and we didn't have very much left in our budget to renovate the new house as much as we would have liked to.

    One of the things we knew we wanted to concentrate on was creating as nice a kitchen as our dollars would let us. So that meant the usual suspects: IKEA cabinets, cheaper countertops (we wanted Ceaserstone), and less cabinetry. We also kept the stove that came with the home as we did not have the Benjamins to splurge on a new one. We also kept our old refrigerator. The only appliance we bought new was the dishwasher, also from IKEA.

    I'd like to show you how we took $559 and made ourselves a pretty cool island that we love.


    1. First, we outlined the footprint of the island, 3'x6' with Blue painters tape. FYI, the kitchen is not finished in these photos.


    2. The next step was to build a frame base. Here we used 2x4s that are held down with angle brackets. Do you see the dresser under the window? That is an IKEA MALM bedroom dresser that we will be using as part of our island.


    3. Once the base was built, we attached the MALM dresser. To the left of the dresser (as seen in this view) is an IKEA base cabinet. We found it in AS IS at IKEA and it was in rough shape as you can see. We snatched it up for $10!!

    4. With both bases in, we can now move on the next step: the sides and top.

    5. For the sides and the top we decide to use IKEA wood countertops. We purchased two; each one is 3'x6' basically. We cut one right in half, and voila, the sides of the island!


    6. The top is, you guessed, a full sheet of the IKEA wood countertop. This is so heavy, we barely had to fasten it in place much, we just used two brackets on either end, tucked away inside so you can't see them.

    7. For the face of the island, we attached a piece of 1/2" plywood to the 2x4 base and the back of the cabinets. We then used a sheet of vinyl wall panel (called Plas-Tex) that we picked up at Lowe's. It is attached with Liquid Nails, that's it. So far, its held up well. Easy to clean kick marks too!

    8. This is what the other side looks like. the MALM drawer gives it a very refined look we think. The only thing left to do is to add some shelving on the right and a toekick.


    9. Yes we would have liked to have some doors here instead of exposing the pots and pans, but the budget wouldn't allow it. Nobody sees this side as much anyway so we're ok with it.

    Well, there you have it, our $559 kitchen island. Hopefully, it will inspire you to do something you're happy with, and not spend too much money doing it. I did sand it and seal it when it was all put together of course.

    Here is a list of the items we bought (with prices, rounded to the nearest dollar) with links, if available:

    (3) 2x4s (10'), Lowe's, $8.40 + tax = $9
    (2) Countertops, IKEA Numerar $390 + tax = $424.
    (1) IKEA Malm dresser, $69.99 + tax = $76
    (1) IKEA Base Cabinet, (AS IS), $9.99 + tax = $11
    (2) Shelves and back of island, Lowe's, made from (1) 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" plywood, $15.97 + tax = $17
    Plas-Tex Vinyl Sheet, Lowe's, $19.98 + tax = $22
    Total: $559

    See more of the customised kitchen island.

    ~ Danny Cerezo, Los Angeles, CA
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    Half a loft bed

    Posted by Unknown Posted on 8:27 AM with No comments

    Materials: 3 x MALM with 3 drawer; 4 x Expedit 2x2

    Description: Unfortunately, the bedroom in our new apartment is a bit small. To gain more storage space, we have set up our bed to MALM dressers and Expedit shelves.

    First of all drawers and shelves are built according to instructions, and positioned as desired:


    All pieces were connected via screws so that they can no longer move as single items.


    There are differences in height between Malm and Expedit. With some boards we have cleared these:


    The mattresses and bed is finished with a solid wood frame, so they can not slip off accidentally.

    ~ Thorsten, Cologne; Germany
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